2025 Gower Pilgrimage - Day 4

Wednesday 10th September

Is that rain I see?

Well, it is Wales, what do you expect? This morning, wisely as it turns out, Ali & I donned our full wet weather gear. 

Waterproofs a must today

The rain was fairly heavy by the time Denise drove us to Bishopston where today's walk started. The start looked a little scary as we had to negotiate a very fast flowing via a ford!! It looked like wet boots to start until Ali noticed a rather nice footbridge way over to our right. I'm not sure that a 100 foot climb up a very steep, twisty lane was the ideal start but we made it Ali gliding up beside me as I puffed and panted to the top. Once e'd crossed the busy main road the going was much easier along a twisting minor road that was surprisingly busy. Another main road to cross and a stile to climb and then we were onto a much more pleasant wooded lane. The lane dipped down to the bottom of a small valley with what we assumed had been a gentle babbling stream a few days ago but was now a raging torrent. This time there was no handy footbridge. Nothing for it but we had to wade across. Fortunately both of us were wearing boots which proved up to the job. Of course, once you've climbed down you have to climb up again. So we climbed up what seemed to be a bit of a drovers track. Part the way up was a huge fallen tree across the path but, being a drovers track, the sides were steep so there was plenty of room to walk under it. Once at the top, you've guessed it, we started back down again. The track became steeper sided, quite narrow and boulder strewn with a bit of a stream running down it thanks to the almost incessant rain over the last few days. Quite tricky to negotiate with varifocal glasses which were steaming up. We arrived in the little hamlet of Ilston and the church of St Illtyd where we discover a kneeler dedicated to the QAIMNS the pre-cursor of the QA's. 

QAIMNS

From there it was all downhill, literally, as we took a delightful pathway beside a fairly hefty, muddy river. At one point I caught the toe of my boot on a fallen branch and went a A-over-T!! Again!! No photo this time! Further on we came to another fallen tree but people had made a pathway round it. There were a lot of fallen trees although it had not been massively windy. We crossed and recrossed the river on substantial footbridges that were well above water level. I suspect that the water level gets even higher. Not long before we were due to cross a main road again we came across a rather large, very recently fallen willow tree blocking our way. There was no way round so we had to fight our way through and over its fallen limbs. Once negotiated the rest of the way was fairly trouble free.

Rain stopped so we could see the sea

Our next port of call (after more ups & downs) was the church of St John the Baptist at Penmaen, our lunch stop. Just as well because I was definitely flagging by this time. Sadly the church was locked and there was no seating in the porch. We did find a rather handy bench in a garden area overlooking the sea at Three Cliffs Bay. Fortunately the rain stopped long enough for us to eat our sandwiches & munch a few Haribos. Then it was off to visit the penultimate church at Nicholston, St Nicholas'.

We'd skirted the moorland behind Penmaen and Nicholston and dropped down to the busy main road. Fortunately there was a gate opposite where we assumed we could walk parallel to the road before entering the churchyard. The churchyard wall was substantial and looked comparatively new or restored. Could we find and entry point? Nope! Nothing. We certainly could go back & walk the road, it was too busy & dangerous.

Ali showing me how it's done!

Ali instructed me in the art of wall climbing! She shinned up & over & then it was my turn. I scrambled laboriously, in an ungainly fashion, (feeling rather like a beached whale!) The video (on Facebook) is a definite Ooops Moment. Once in the churchyard we made our way to the porch only to find the church locked and no stamp to be found. There was seating either side which we gratefully used. Whilst sitting we noticed swallows swooping around; one went to fly into the porch, saw us, and veered off. We heard some chirruping and thought it might be sparrows in the trees. It eventually dawned on us that the sound probably came form inside the porch, possibly from swallow chicks in the rafters or door-frame carvings. We beat a retreat and stood back a while to watch as the parent bird swooped around a bit more before flying inside the porch to tend their young. We exited the churchyard via a roadside gate and made our way along the road to another, closer lane back up towards the moors. 

All we had to do now was climb up a prolonged incline till we reached the top of the ridge where we joined the Gower Way as it headed westwards towards Reynoldson and out final church of St George. The pilgrimage part of our Gower Walk was nearly over. We had visited some lovely, quaint little churches all hunkered down hiding from the elements. We had, in our own way, appreciated the dedication and labour of the earlier Christians who had founded each one. We had really enjoyed their history and peaceful surroundings. We felt at one with our maker.

Sadly our maker had a final surprise up her sleeve! as we climbed onto the ridgeway path the wind grew stronger and the rain got a little heavier. For at least a mile and probably more the rain lashed down even heavier than it had done in Pembrokeshire last year in a Force 9 Storm. We battled the torrential downpour, water streaming off our waterproofs in rivulets. Mixed in with the rain was a little hail, just to add to the fun!! As we dropped down towards Reynoldson village the rain and wind subsided and there before us was blue sky!! I think somone upstairs was having a laugh!!

Last church of the day was St George's. The church was open and we entered and found memorials to the fallen of both World Wars. There were two Benson's, a Lieut Col and a Captain, both killed in 1914. Father & son or brother's we don't know. The Lieut Col, although originally " buried" in France was brought back and re-buried in the churchyard in what is now a CWG.

Home at last and the sun finally shines!

Pilgrimage over, around 50 miles plus the connecting route joining St Gwynour's to St Teilo's. 

Now we need to complete 3 circular walks and 1 linear walk to get close to the 100 miles. 

And the weather is looking . . . . just as awful as it has to date. 

In fact, the last day is threatening thunder clouds and lightening; very, very, frightening!!