2023 Walking Ireland – Celebration Day

Wednesday 26th April (Published Thur 27th)

Today I had a lie-in until 0845!!! Luxury being able to turn over at 0645 and go back to sleep!!

The day started with a slap-up breakfast at the Blueberry Café in Donegal town. After a very brief wander round town (Did I want to go for a walk? No thank you!) We headed back to the house.

The weather was dry, a bit chilly and overcast so no sun. I still fancied sitting outside, out of the wind, in the shelter of the sunroom. I lay on the very comfortable lounger with my thick fleece on, wrapped in a cuddly orange blanket (Julia’s favourite colour) with my peaked cap jammed on my head against the wind and hoped for sun . . . . and promptly fell asleep!

The rest of the afternoon was spent back inside in the sunroom reading & dozing in between munching on snacks including Julia’s delicious raspberry & white chocolate cupcakes.

George arrived back from a successful day on the golf-course so, late afternoon he & headed back into town to the Castle Pub for my long-awaited treat – a Seafood Platter washed down with a couple of pints of Guinness.

I can safely say that my time doing my Ireland Walk has been amazing. I have enjoyed unbelievable weather, seen some stunning scenery, been spoilt rotten by my wonderful hosts Julia & George, been lovingly tended to by my amazing wife . . . . and capped it all with seafood & Guinness!! I will most definitely be back but maybe not do such long walks next time.

2023 Walking Ireland - Day 8 - FINAL DAY

Tuesday 25th April – Last Day

Big Dog Forest to Ballintempo Forest 11.90 Miles

Well, who's a lucky girl? Out of my eight days of walking I've only had 1 day of rain . . . . in Ireland!!!!

Today started with a glorious view from our home-from-home of the mirror calm estuary. 

The sun was shining and all was well with the world as Denise and I headed for The Thatch at Belleek for breakfast before starting my final trek. We had checked yesterday that they would be open!!

I was keeping my fingers crossed that the weather would be as good in the part of Fermanagh that I was walking. We arrived at my start point; photos were taken on my phone, goodbyes were said and I set off on the final ‘leg’

For some reason I was all fingers & thumbs this morning. I was wearing thick woollen gloves (I’d mislaid my thinner ones!) Although it was sunny it was bitingly cold. 

In fact, it had been so cold this morning that I had to de-ice the front windscreen before I could drive off!! I tried a few times to take some photos without much success although I did take a few random selfies that I didn’t know about!!

After Big Dog Forest I finally warmed up a bit and became a little more technically adept so was able to take more photos again. The next Forest on today’s list was Carrigan Forest. It was here that I felt less in a heavily managed Forestry Commission ‘factory’ and more on an ancient trail. 

Although I was still walking on the same broad, gravelled Forest track, now it was bounded on each side by an avenue of gnarled, scrubby trees that looked way older even that I am!! Beyond that was another broad strip of rough, boggy ground littered with banks of aromatic, golden gorse and the occasional deciduous bush. Further beyond frequently there were deciduous trees before, finally, giving way to the usual Sitka Spruce.

Perhaps it was this that made for more birdsong, or perhaps the sunshine, or perhaps even the fact there was less wind. Whatever it was I was far more aware of the general peace and quiet and the uplifting sounds of birds welcoming in Spring (and the bonus of no cuckoo!!)

All of my walk was on the Ulster Way, clearly marked at each turning point. All the guides would have you walk from Belcoo in the south to Magho Cliffs in the north but that means the going is predominantly uphill!! Why would you do that? I advise doing it my way, Magho Viewpoint to Belcoo. It’s still not easy but there are more down-hills to up-hills that way.

I had to walk round Lough Formal so I formally marched round it whistling British Grenadiers, Early One Morning and Sweet Lass of Richmond Hill (under my breath!) It’s a military thing!! I kept imagining myself back on the parade square at Guildford on a 2 Company Passing-Out Parade. General Salute & the Corps Marches!! Ahh well – it whiles away the miles!!

Having got to the far side of Lough Formal I first saw a sign saying Car Park this way - did that mean I could have driven it instead of walking? I’ll know next time!! I then saw the sign suggesting a walk up to Formal More Viewpoint  . . . . up a very steep hill!!  . . . . I thought about it for at least a Nano-second!!

This walk comprised very long zig-zags. I zigged, knowing full well that I’d covered miles but progressed yards along my direction of intended travel!! I zagged but hey-ho – gradually I was reaching my goal.

I came across my first lone human driving another road-levelling tractor. Further up the track I came across a heavy roller machine. No doubt he would travel up and down the track on his leveller and then up and down with the roller!! What a job!

I had lunch at Lough Namanfin sitting on a beautifully made bench. Enough room for me to lie out in the sun, propped up by my rucksack. I couldn’t get too comfy as I had a chauffeuse to meet at the end of my hike. Sandwich and homemade sausage rolls scoffed, water drunk and a high energy dark chocolate & berry bar to hand for dessert on the move I set off again for my final destination.

I stopped again just after Sarly Hill as my feet were getting a bit sore. I sat on a nearby stump and changed into a new, dry pair of socks, re-laced my boots and set off again, eager to be finished. There were a few smaller zigzags to negotiate. At one I happened across a couple of chaps ministering to what looked like a bright green, brand-new logging grappler! The engine cover was off and these two guys and their two heavily laden mechanics vans had all bits and bobs strewn across the track. They kindly made a path for me through their work-space and I carried on down towards where I hoped the car would be.

The last mile or so always seems to last for ever. As I trudged downhill I kept thinking the end would just be round the next corner. Denise, who had parked the car earlier (reader – you surely are not surprised!) walked up the hill to meet me then panicked that she was in the wrong place or had missed me somehow so hastily retreated back to the car. We must have been but a short distance from each other for half a mile or so! Eventually I rounded the final bend and there she was, waiting for me, as always.

Photos were taken and congratulatory hugs exchanged before we set off back to Donegal and an excellent Raspberry & White Chocolate Bun cooked by Julia. She cooked 12 but I’ve only managed 1 . . . . so far!!

Over 8 days I have completed 101.18 miles in, for the most part, glorious weather. Not too hot and not too cold. A bit damp one day but heck . . . . it is Ireland.

My very grateful thanks to Denise (in particular), Julia and George for supporting me so well. Without them none of this would have happen. My thanks also to the many people who have sponsored me through my Give as you Live page or through cash donations and raffles. I assure you that all of the money I have raised goes to my two charities (minus any online fees) All of my expenses are self-financed.

This walk has been in memory of a true ex-WRAC, Mel Howell, who surely made her mark in our world. RIP Mel xx

You can donate to my two charities, Pancreatic Cancer Research and WRAC Association at my Give as you Live page at: 

https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-ireland-100-mile-charity-walk-2023

2023 Walking Ireland - Day 7

Monday 24th April

Magho Cliffs Viewpoint to Road, 4.7 Miles & Florence Court Red Trail 5.8 miles

(Should have been Cladagh Bridge to Florence Court 5.9 miles  but section closed!)

Who said it always rains in Fermanagh? Denise & I arrived at Magho Cliffs Viewpoint, the start of today's walk, in glorious sunshine. A pleasant change from my last trip to this continuous area of forest, possibly the largest in Ireland.

I got out of the car for our customary photo-shoot. Brrrr! There was a brisk, cold breeze! Well we were at one of the highest, most exposed parts of Fermanagh. Photos taken I hastily adjusted my 'dress' and put on my windproof high-viz jacket. It kept out the cold and no-one could miss me as I walked down the Ulster Way against the flow of traffic.

After the bare, open ground leading up to the viewpoint where a vast acreage of land had been felled my walk became more sheltered. In fact, I was beginning to steam-up as there was a sizeable hill to climb. Once over that and more enclosed in the forest I had to stop and take my fleece off - I was TOO hot!!

The Ulster Way is a supposed route starting & finishing in Belfast & travelling around Ulster in a clockwise direction. At this point it is a smooth, singe-tracked, tarmacadam highway. I chose to walk it anti-clockwise here in Fermanagh mainly because the general trend of the trail means I'm mostly descending.

The day was one of those will it/won't it days weather wise. Often the sky looked threatening even whilst I was bathed in sunlight. The surrounding countryside was the spruce forest I'd become used to although there were a number of open spaces where gorse, deciduous trees and upland Bogs survived. The views, when they popped out from behind the trees, were spectacular and well worth spending several minutes savouring them. 

I stopped at one viewpoint to have a snack and enjoy the tranquility and amazing vista. 

A chap pulled up in his bright yellow work lorry, got out his phone (this was one of the few places with a signal) and sat there with his noisy, rattling engine running the whole time I was there and for some time after I’d left (he passed me further down the road. 

The streams, rapids and waterfalls were in full spate after the heavy rain of Saturday & Sunday.

Eventually I arrived at the road and made my way along it to my first pick-up point of the day where George duly found me and drove me to Florence Court as I had discovered that the section of the Ulster Way that I had been planning to use, from Cladagh Bridge up the gorge towards the Marble Arch Caves, was closed. I had intended on finishing at Florence Court, a National Trust Property, so I just decided to complete the circular Red Trail around the Florence Court estate. As it turned out I had a lovely, strenuous but pretty walk with many interesting things along the way.

The first half was a very different walk among much more open deciduous woodland. The paths were well marked and well maintained so, although strenuous, with a few hefty uphill sections, it was comparatively easy walking.

There were so many interesting things to see; Lady’s Well, the early water supply for the house; 

the bucolic view across open, cattle-strewn pasture towards the house; the area where young visitors were encouraged to make dens; 

the famous Irish Yew Tree, a previously unknown species discovered in 1767 and one of the 70 Ancient Trees dedicated to the late Queen in her Platinum Jubilee Year.

The Red Trail took me not only through deciduous woodland with its carpets of bluebells but also beside a babbling stream wandering gently beside the path, such a calm sight after the rushing and tumbling of the upland streams. The trail also joined up, at its furthest point, with the Ulster Way and Cuilcagh Way.

I walked the Cuilcagh Boardwalk last year, it’s an amazing experience if you have the legs and the lungs for it! From part of the trail I could spy part of Cuilcagh Mountain before returning to the House and its beautiful gardens. Another place well worth the visit.

George picked me up again at the Florence Court Car Park and drove me to my home-from-home. 

Tea & blackcurrant jam on hot buttered toast was my teatime treat as I sat in the sunroom with my feet up!!

If you would like to you can donate to my Give as you Live page at: 

https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-ireland-100-mile-charity-walk-2023

2023 Walking Ireland - Day 6

Sunday 23^rd April

Bundoran Circular 3.33mls & Murvagh Beach and Golf Course 6.17mls

Today was supposed to be a walk from Killeter village in South Tyrone to Pettigo on the Tyrone/Donegal Border. After my walk on Friday I did a recce to see where my start point was going to be. I found the start, realised there was a VERY large hill to climb up a mile or so  and then down again the other side before more or less joining the road that I then took to drive to Pettigo and then onwards to Donegal!! I thought of my poor feet and decided that 9 or so miles of pounding on a metalled road surface was not going to fill me full of joy!! A re-think was in order.

Today is Sunday (and also St George’s Day – Hope all my English relations/friends/readers had a good day!)

Sunday is a day of rest & time to spend with the family so I kind of did!! We drove to Bundoran (in two cars) and had very nice breakfast at the Salty Fox. Then we parked the cars at the other side of the town near the sea-front with the intention of walking round the headland, back past the Salty Fox and back through the town to the car. Best laid plans!! There was “an incident” on the headland with lots of police so we had to make a detour and miss the headland out. 

George & Julia decided to go back to their car & return home whilst Denise bravely (foolishly?) decided to stay with me to walk past the Salty fox to the headland and bay the other side. I had to keep pushing it!! The clouds were ominous but I just wanted one more photo. Just a bit further, the clouds will blow away!! We got drenched!! 

The rain started at the furthest point away from the car . . . . of course!! 

By the time we got to the car the rain had stopped but we were soaked. 

Denise, however, is still talking to me!!

We dried off back at our home-from-home and had a snack and a hot drink. 

Then George kindly drove me all the way to Murvagh Beach which is right next to his Golf Club! He always tells me how fortunate with the weather he is on his links course. the course is situated on a peninsula jutting northwards out towards Donegal Bay. 

It’s where the channel from the bay narrows at the peninsula point before heading up to Donegal town itself.

It was a short walk over the dune to the beach and there before me was a long stretch of sandy beach heading northwards with the mountains of County Donegal as a backdrop.

I headed towards the point on the damp, firm sand. 

There was a bit of a blow (as you would expect beside the sea) but it was wonderful to be beside the sea again.  

There was intermittent sunshine although the clouds were a little threatening. 

I walked far enough around the point to be able to see, far in the distance, the “estate” where Julia & George live. I waved but I don’t think Denise & Julia saw me!! By this time the clouds looked VERY threatening; that dark, purple-black. plumped-up kind of cloud that looks over-filled with rain. I turned back the way I’d come and headed back down the beach hoping I could out-walk the rain that I was sure was coming. There were a few spits & spots but I had my umbrella handy . . . . but it wasn’t needed! 

I made it back off the beach and then had another mile or so of wooded avenue to walk before arriving at Donegal Golf Club, Murvagh where I was to meet George. As I walked up to the clubhouse he was there to greet me. 

Photos were taken and we got back in the car and he drove me home for a superb Sunday Dinner (which is why this Blog is late!!)

That means that I have completed another 9.5 miles towards my total. Just two more days to go . . . . in County Fermanagh so wish me luck with the weather!!

2023 Walking Ireland - Day 5

Saturday 22^nd April 

Lough Navar Loop – 8.7 miles

“It'll be fine tomorrow Marg. Sure we're in for a bit of rain about 1’ish but it won't be much.”

George's words rang in my ears as I drove past Belleek towards Garrison and the rain started! It got heavier and heavier as I neared my starting point. If ever you visit Ireland a visit to the Navar Forest Scenic Drive is a must. I used it in order to access my start point near Meenameen Lough. This time I was going clockwise round the route. I was well wrapped against the rain & carried my umbrella. 

Plus Point Number 1 – far less wind today.

I tried a few times to take some photos but couldn’t get the hang of juggling umbrella & phone at the start!! The first couple of miles was the same old forest trails but with added water in the form of puddles & rivulets where wheel tracks had cut grooves. 

I decided to give Lough Anlaban a miss and headed for Lough Achork instead (it appeared to have a better pathway round it.) I’d hardly seen a soul or a car up till then. Blow me down but there was a car parked (not mine!!) right by the opening onto the pathway!!

It was a delightful little lake with a comfortable, well maintained pathway all the way round. (The “car-driver” was at the far end looking just as damp as me!!) I thought what a magical place it would have been for young (accompanied) kids.

Ever the primary school teacher I thought of all the magical stories to be made up from the tiny rock cars, magical woodland, tree & rock formations! 

Plus Point Number 2 – magical places.

After the Lough it was back onto the metalled trackway which I now had to share with the (supposed) one way traffic. Needless to say you always get at least one awkward customer going the wrong way & hell for leather coz they’re going uphill. 

Compared to my other forest walks this was positively overcrowded!! Although my route only followed the road for about a third of the way it was fairly busy; there again, it is a Saturday. 

Plus Point 3 – coz it’s raining there are fewer people at this popular tourist spot!

There was water everywhere: 

the calm loughs, 

the streams & rivers rushing down beside me, 

tumbling over rocky outcrops & crashing over waterfalls.

I also realised how clean the air must be as I saw great swathes of silvery-green lichen festooning the trees beside the rushing river.

I came off the road and back onto the forest track where my route crossed the Sillees River and onto the Ulster Way.

I’ll be walking more of the Ulster Way on my last two days. George now says that Fermanagh is the wettest place on earth!! 

Now he tells me?!

Back to the tranquillity of the forest with their majestic spruce and the sombre open spaces of upland bog and the remains of felled trees. 

All I could hear, apart from the incessant chirping of small birds hidden in the dark forest, was the constant spattering of rain on my umbrella.

Even in the gloomy dampness there were sudden bursts of colour: the golden glow of gorse, the pale yellow of large clumps of primroses and an amazing cushion of burnished moss blushing at the forest edge. 

Plus Point 4 – as my Aunt used to say – we need a bit of colour!

I was by now about three-quarters of the way round my route when I spied Lough Navar. 

It was a much larger body of water than Lough Achork. 

There was no pathway round it but I was able to get pretty close to the water’s edge.

By this time I was feeling decidedly  soggy and just a tad fed-up!! Just as well it wasn’t too far to go. 

I almost gave up taking photos until I saw Plus Point 6 – at least I wasn’t walking in the kind of weather than uproots, knock’s down and snaps large spruce trees!!

Hot cuppa and feet-up albeit in the comfort of the ‘sun-room’