2024 Walking South Pembrokeshire - Walk Dedication

 Each year I try and dedicate my walk to someone or something. This year, with permission from his daughter, Alison, I am dedicating it to her late father, Mauvan Jenkins, MM who was brought up in Pembroke Dock.

Mauvan was the son of the late pastor of Bethany Baptist Chapel, Rev. Evan Jenkins. His mother died and Rev Jenkins married my great-aunt Alicia Maud Stephens.

During WW2 Mauvan was in his early twenties. He joined up and served with the 4th Battalion, Wiltshire Regiment.

79 years ago, on 14^th February 1945, No. 6030531 Corporal William George Mauvan JENKINS, The Wiltshire Regiment (Duke of (Edinburgh's) (Pembroke Dock) was awarded the Military Medal.  

Cpl W G Mauvan Jenkins, MM receiving his medal from Field Marshall Montgomery

As a family my generation knew that Uncle Mauvan had been awarded the MM and were told it was because he had carried a wounded comrade back to safety under fire. That this quiet, un-assuming, gentle, man had  done this was accepted as a very “matter-of-fact” event. His picture, being awarded the medal by Field Marshall Montgomery, had pride of place on in my great-aunts home but nothing was ever spoken about.

Recently I started to do some research and came across his entry in the London Gazette dated 24^th May 1945. I continued my research and finally discovered on a website called WW1.Wales, under Pembrokeshire WW2 Heroes  https://ww1.wales/west-wales-gallantry-awards/pembrokeshire-ww2-heroes/  an entry for one, William Mauvan Jenkins, MM, Corporal, 6030531, Wiltshire Regiment.

I read on and was completely astounded by the magnitude of his bravery. None of my generation, including his daughter, had any idea of the circumstances and what he must have gone through then and even the possibility of how it affected his later years.

This was the citation for the Military Medal recommended and written by his CO, Lieutenant Colonel Corbyn, MC.

'South of Cleve on 14 Feb 45 the Company to which this NCO belonged attacked by night a number of buildings which proved to be held by the enemy in some strength. The leading Platoon was stopped by enemy MG fire and suffered a number of casualties. Cpl Jenkins Platoon was then ordered to move to the left of the main road and attack the buildings from a flank. The Platoon Commander took forward one section with him, with Cpl Jenkins in charge. They encountered very heavy automatic fire at extremely close range. Rushing the first enemy post Cpl Jenkins took two prisoners. Almost at once his Platoon Commander was wounded and his Platoon Sergeant killed. Moving close to the buildings, Cpl Jenkins, despite the fact that his Sten carbine refused to function, disarmed 3 further prisoners and captured a fourth. Very heavy enemy fire continued to be directed at his section and an enemy SP gun opened fire at point blank range. By this time almost every man in his section was either killed or wounded. Finding his original route was swept by enemy fire Cpl Jenkins skirted the buildings to find an alternate route. While he was doing so one of his prisoners was killed and one of his own section wounded in the head. Taking his wounded comrade with him Cpl Jenkins successfully brought him to the safety of the Company area of the adjoining unit. The behaviour of this NCO was of the highest order. His example was a magnificent encouragement to his men in the most difficult circumstances.'

The purpose of me writing this dedication is firstly to honour my uncle but, more importantly to highlight the importance of reaching out and getting the right support and help to aid mental health. His daughter said that she knew nothing of this event and, knowing it now, makes a lot of what she saw and experienced in her (very happy) childhood make sense. 

This is part of the reason I am fundraising for the VC Gallery, Pembroke Dock while they support local veterans and the community in general. 

RIP Uncle Mauvan and your lovely wife, Aunty Megan, who supported you and Alison un-complainingly over the years.

2024 Walking South Pembrokeshire – The Build-Up

 14th April 2024

In less than two weeks I’ll be starting my eleventh 100 Mile Solo Charity Walk for the Women’s Royal Army Corps Association and this year also for the VC Gallery (Pembroke Dock). Ten walks under my belt, getting on for £40K raised for charity and . . . . . . . I have never felt less prepared!!

 

I’m happy with my planning and admin; each day’s route has been drawn, drop-offs, pick-ups and stops organised. We have booked a lovely, ‘Stella Marina’ chalet accommodation, hosted by Donna Fracchiolla, at Freshwater East, about the geographical centre of my walk.

 

But . . . . . .  I really don’t feel at all prepared!! The weather has put a real damper on my preparations. The rain & flooding in my part of UK has made most of my training routes impassable. There’s no pleasure slipping, sliding & wading in mud and it’s potentially an injury waiting to happen. Also, the continual grey, wet, miserable days have taken their toll on us all. It’s been weather to sit on the sofa, stuff myself silly with delicious food & drink and watch mind-numbing TV!! It’s hard to get motivated when everything around is wet & miserable.

 

Having said all I am going to finish my walk as planned. I’ll be taking my un-fit, over-weight carcass around the nearly 100 mile route no matter what it takes. I have no doubt that my chauffeuse, nurse, cook and general life-saver (Denise) will be tending my wounds, feeding me up and egging me on until I finally finish.    

 

Half-Platter, Mrs WtF, Solva

I’m hoping to complete the walk in 8 days (it takes me longer each year!!) but, I have an extra day’s grace just in case things go a bit awry. I’ll also be celebrating with wonderful fresh seafood from Mrs Will the Fish, Solva and The Quayside Tearooms, Lawrenny – yummy!!

 

Crab Sandwich, Lawrenny

You can support me and my two charities by clicking on the link below.

It will take you to my fundraising page at Give as you Live Donate:

https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-pembrokeshire-100-mile-2024

2024 Walking South Pembrokeshire - History

 The Historic Sites of South Pembrokeshire

I will be starting my latest 100 Mile Solo Walking Challenge on Thursday 25th April 2024. 

I thought it might be a good idea to tell you a little more (Well, probably a lot more!!) about the Historic sites of South Pembrokeshire that I will be visiting along my way. I looked up as many Castles and Fortifications as I could find, all 22 of them! I've probably missed a few out as well as it's been a heavily defended part of United Kingdom since at least the Iron Age. Before trackways and roads the main form of transport was by water whether that be rivers or the sea. Nearly all of the sites I'll be visiting used the proximity to water as their main defence.

1. Start - Near Llanteg
2. Trelissey/Treleesy Enclosure - A circular enclosure with the site of a Roman villa inside it’s circular banks.
3. Amroth Castle - was rebuilt in the 18th and 19th centuries on a 12th century site. It was a feudal residence in the early medieval period. It was acquired by the Elliott family in the 14th century. There was an earlier castle half a mile to the north of which little remains.
4. Tenby Castle - Separating North Beach from Castle Beach, this modest headland is capped by the scanty remains of Tenby's 11th-century Norman castle. The remaining stone structure dates from the 13th century but there are mentions of the castle from as early as 1153. On the very top of Castle Hill is a large memorial to Prince Albert (captioned 'Albert Dda', meaning Albert the Good).
St Katherine’s Island Fort was built between 1867 & 1870 in case invaders should attempt to land and march on the dockyards at the Milford Haven Estuary. It wasn’t fully armed until 1886.

5. Skomar Defended Enclosure - The defended enclosure is on the headland between Lydstep Haven and Skrinkle Haven.
6. Old Castle Head Promontory Fort - This is on the headland to the south of Manorbier Camp and is restricted access.
7. Manorbier Castle - Craggy, lichen-spotted Manorbier Castle was the birthplace of Giraldus Cambrensis (Gerald of Wales; 1146–1223), one of the country's greatest scholars and patriots. It was founded in the late 11th century by the Anglo-Norman de Barry family. The land was granted to Odo de Barri, a Norman knight, at the end of the 11th century. Initially, he constructed a motte-and-bailey castle on the site which had a wooden keep defended by a palisade and earthworks embankments. In the early part of the 12th century, William de Barri, Odo's son, used locally quarried Limestone to strengthen the fortification. The 12th to 19th century castle buildings are grouped around a pretty garden (where they serve nice coffee!!).

My South Pembrokeshire Route - each day's walk a different colour

8. Greenala Camp - On a headland between Trewent Point and Stackpole Quay is Greenala coastal promontory fort, a prehistoric fortified camp.
9. Fishpond Camp - Sited on a cliff overlooking Bosherston Lily Ponds is Fishpond Camp, a promontory fort dating from the prehistoric era.
10. Buckspool Down Fort - Not far from St Govan’s Chapel (thought to be a hermit’s site) is the first of many prehistoric forts on this southern plateau, Buckspool promontory coastal fort.
11. Promontory Fort - Iron Age but I can find no information
12 & 13. Crocksydam Camp & Flimston Bay Camp
The forts are Iron Age promontory forts in spectacular locations on a high cliff overlooking Flimston Bay, near Castlemartin, just east of the well-known sea stack known as the Green Bridge of Wales.
Crocksydam is to the East and Flimston is to the west of the bay. The forts were probably erected sometime between 600 BC and 43 AD. Flimston fort is defended by a series of three earthen banks and ditches on the landward side, enclosing an area of roughly 1.6 hectares. Within this space the ground slopes dramatically. On the eastern side of the fort interior are a number of shallow hollows that may represent platforms for supporting huts.
14. Merrion Camp - Not far from St Twynnells, on the southern slopes of the ridge above the Castlemartin peninsula, is Merrion Camp fortified enclosure. It also gives it's name to the present day Military Training Camp situated beside the B4319.
15. Castlemartin Castle - The village of Castlemartin was in the ancient Hundred of the same name, once centred on a prominent Norman motte-and-bailey castle giving, with the church dedicated to St Martin, the origin of the name.
16. Freshwater West Memorial - The memorial cross, situated on the north western headland overlooking Freshwater West Bay, commemorates the sinking of LCG 15 and LCG 16 a pair of ‘Landing Craft’, swamped and sunk in a severe storm en-route from the H&W Yard, Belfast to Falmouth. The tragedy took place on the night of 25/26^th April 1943 with the loss of 85 lives. Most of the victims were from the LCG’s but also included 6 crew from the fisheries protection vessel, HMS Rosemary, who attempted a rescue using their ship’s lifeboat.
17. West Pickard Camp - The first of the prehistoric promontory coastal forts on the Angle peninsula is on the western side of Pickard Bay. It is a scheduled ancient monument.
18. Sheep Island Fort - The promontory coastal fort at Sheep Island is also a prehistoric scheduled monument.
19, 20 & 21. East Blockhouse, Thorne Island and Chapel Bay Fort
Henry VIII issued an order, called a "device", in 1539, giving instructions for the "defence of the realm in time of invasion" and the construction of forts along the English coastline. Soon afterwards work began on the East Blockhouse near the village of Angle it overlooked the mouth of Milford Haven harbour.
The Thorn Island Battery was built during 1852-4 to provide the first forward defence for the Haven waterway, coupled with West Blockhouse, Dale and Stack Rock forts. 
Chapel Bay, one of a series of forts built as part of the inner line of defence of the Haven following the Royal Commission on the Defence of the United Kingdom, it is a Grade II Listed Building and is also known as Chapel Bay Battery. Construction began in 1890, and was completed in 1891. The battery was the first fortification in the area to be built of mass concrete. It could accommodate 91 men, and had a mess room and sick bay facilities. Its initial armament was three ten inch rifled muzzle-loading guns. There were twelve forts constructed to protect the Haven and Royal Dockyards.
22. Angle Tower House
Angle Tower was constructed in the 14th century by the Shirburn family. With 3 foot thick walls, a drawbridge and a moat, it had enough fortification for the family to feel a moderate sense of safety if threatened, particularly by seaborne raiders. It is thought to be the only Peel (Pele) Tower in Wales.
23 & 24. Popton Fort & West Popton Camp - The former continues the fortifications built in the late 1800's. West Popton Camp is a prehistoric fortified enclosure on the southern shore of the Haven.
25. Pembroke Castle - This spectacular and forbidding castle was the home of the earls of Pembroke for over 300 years and the birthplace of Henry VII, the first Tudor king. A fort was established here in 1093 by Arnulph de Montgomery, but most of the present buildings date from the 13th century.
The oldest part of the complex is the looming keep, dating to 1204. Next to the keep is the Dungeon Tower, where you can peer into a dank, dark prison cell. Nearby, with access through the Northern Hall, are steps to Wogan Cavern, a large natural cave that was partially walled in by the Normans and probably used as a store and boathouse. According to research carried out in 2022 the cave was occupied by residents as far back as the Palaeolithic and Mesolithic Periods
In the room in which he is believed to have been born, in 1457, a tableau commemorates Henry Tudor (Harri Tudur), who defeated Richard III at the Battle of Bosworth Field in 1485 to become Henry VII.

Shipbuilding began on the northern shore of the Haven near the village of Hubberston on land owned by diplomat and politician Sir William Hamilton. The town of Milford grew up around this new facility leased to Harry and Joseph Jacob. When they became bankrupt the navy took over the lease. In 1809 a naval commission recommended purchase of the Milford Haven facility and formal establishment of a Royal Navy dockyard.  After failing to agree a purchase price for the existing Milford shipyard the Admiralty agreed to purchase land 5 miles across the haven, in a district called Pater (village) or Paterchurch. The town of Pembroke Dock was founded in 1814 when Pembroke Dockyard was established.

26 - 29. Pembroke Dock Fortifications - 

The Defensible Barracks is a Grade II* listed, Victorian-era fortification and barracks built between 1841 and 1846 to house the royal dockyard's garrison of Royal Marines and to cover the landward side of the dockyard from an infantry assault. It was probably the last trace bastion fort built in Europe.
The gun towers, one to the west of the dockyard and the other in Front Street (1851), were commonly referred to as ‘Martello towers’. However, when they were built they were known as Cambridge Gun Towers. Construction was started in 1844 and no fewer than 12 fortifications were built along the shores of the Milford Haven Estuary.
The Royal Dockyard (1815 – 1926) built many ships including Royal Yachts. When it was closed in 1926 it remained redundant until 1930 when the RAF took it over as a seaplane base.
RAF Pembroke Dock (1930 – 1959) became the largest Flying Boat station in the world and at one point during the Second World War it was host to 99 aircraft.
Llanion Barracks. In the 1850s a hutted encampment was established on Llanion Hill. In 1904 this was replaced by four brick-built barrack blocks, designed to house a thousand troops. The new barracks, the first to be constructed with a separate area for cooking and ablutions, was one of the most modern in the country at that time.

Pembroke Dock Military Cemetery is a burial ground for military personnel and is the only dedicated military cemetery in Wales.

Bush Camp, Pembroke Dock was where 102nd (Pembroke & Cardiganshire) Field Regiment, 405 (Pembroke Yeomanry) Field Battery were mobilised a few days before the outbreak of war in September 1939. It was where my father and his friends enlisted just before war was declared.
30. Upton Castle - Upton Castle is a 13th-century castle or fortified manor house with an associated chapel, located near Cosheston. It was built on land owned by the Earls of Pembroke.
31. Carew Castle - The rambling limestone ruins range from functional 12th-century fortifications to Elizabethan country house. The castle was built by Gerald de Windsor (Henry I's constable of Pembroke) and his wife, the wonderfully named Princess Nest (daughter of the Welsh king of Deheubarth), on the site of an ancient Celtic fort. It was abandoned in 1690.
Near the castle entrance is the 11th-century Carew Cross. Covered in intricate Celtic carvings and standing 4m tall, it's one of the grandest of its kind.
32. Park Camp - Park Camp is a prehistoric enclosure that is east of Whitehill, near Carew.
33. Cresswell Castle  - Situated half a mile north of the village of Cresswell Quay on the banks of the River Cresswell in what is currently private land. The buildings were originally a 13th-century stone fortified manorial complex, founded by the Augustinian Priory of Haverfordwest.  It is thought to date back to the thirteenth century but has seen many alterations since, particularly in the sixteenth and seventeenth centuries. It originally had some defensive adaptations but in its later guise had a more domestic function. It seems to have been abandoned in the latter part of the seventeenth century.
34. Lawrenny Quay - Situated about half a mile from the village it played a role in the World War II as a base for Supermarine Walrus seaplanes and a training centre, known as HMS Daedalus II, operated by the Fleet Air Arm. It was operational between 1941 and 1946, being used by the Royal Navy, 1941 - 1943 and then put into a Care & Maintenance status.

This is where my walk finishes hopefully with a fresh crab sandwich at the Lawrenny Quayside Tearoom.

  

2024 Walking South Pembrokeshire

Marg Davies' Solo 100 Mile Charity Walk 2024

In the end of April I’ll be embarking on my 2024 solo charity walk. It’ll be my 11^th year and I’ll be doing my walk in Wales, returning to my home-county, to walk around & between the castles & fortifications of South Pembrokeshire. I’m planning to complete my 100 miles between Thursday 25^th April 2024 and Thursday 2^nd May 2024.  

My Route during the Walk

Each year my supporters amaze and humble me with their generosity and again I’m raising funds for two charities. The first is the Women’s Royal Army Corps Association, the only veteran’s charity set up specifically to cater for the needs of female veterans. Females are often the forgotten ‘heroes’ - forgotten by society in general but also frequently under-resourced by ‘Veteran’ society as well. The WRAC Association gives not only financial support to female army veterans but also provides emotional support to a section of our community that often suffers isolation and loneliness. The WRAC Association is a safe haven where female veterans can find the support and friendship that is often all that is required to overcome their difficulties. 

East Gun Tower Pembroke Dock

My second charity is a local Pembrokeshire charity, the V C Gallery, CEO Barry John MBE who served 20 years as a soldier and set up the charity to combat loneliness and social isolation for veterans & community. As a veteran myself I am only too aware of how fortunate I am and how difficult and lonely it can be to transition from military to civilian life. You can support me and my two charities by clicking on the link below which will take you to my fundraising page at Give as you Live Donate:

https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-pembrokeshire-100-mile-2024

This year I am returning to my usual plan of starting at point A (near Amroth Castle) & finishing, 8 days later, at point B (Lawrenny Quay) I hope to be able to call in to the VC Gallery, Pembroke Dock on the 7^th day. 

47 Years Later
Remembrance 2023

In 1976 with 22LtAD Regt, RA
(The Welsh Gunners)

2023 Walking Ireland – Celebration Day

Wednesday 26th April (Published Thur 27th)

Today I had a lie-in until 0845!!! Luxury being able to turn over at 0645 and go back to sleep!!

The day started with a slap-up breakfast at the Blueberry Café in Donegal town. After a very brief wander round town (Did I want to go for a walk? No thank you!) We headed back to the house.

The weather was dry, a bit chilly and overcast so no sun. I still fancied sitting outside, out of the wind, in the shelter of the sunroom. I lay on the very comfortable lounger with my thick fleece on, wrapped in a cuddly orange blanket (Julia’s favourite colour) with my peaked cap jammed on my head against the wind and hoped for sun . . . . and promptly fell asleep!

The rest of the afternoon was spent back inside in the sunroom reading & dozing in between munching on snacks including Julia’s delicious raspberry & white chocolate cupcakes.

George arrived back from a successful day on the golf-course so, late afternoon he & headed back into town to the Castle Pub for my long-awaited treat – a Seafood Platter washed down with a couple of pints of Guinness.

I can safely say that my time doing my Ireland Walk has been amazing. I have enjoyed unbelievable weather, seen some stunning scenery, been spoilt rotten by my wonderful hosts Julia & George, been lovingly tended to by my amazing wife . . . . and capped it all with seafood & Guinness!! I will most definitely be back but maybe not do such long walks next time.

2023 Walking Ireland - Day 8 - FINAL DAY

Tuesday 25th April – Last Day

Big Dog Forest to Ballintempo Forest 11.90 Miles

Well, who's a lucky girl? Out of my eight days of walking I've only had 1 day of rain . . . . in Ireland!!!!

Today started with a glorious view from our home-from-home of the mirror calm estuary. 

The sun was shining and all was well with the world as Denise and I headed for The Thatch at Belleek for breakfast before starting my final trek. We had checked yesterday that they would be open!!

I was keeping my fingers crossed that the weather would be as good in the part of Fermanagh that I was walking. We arrived at my start point; photos were taken on my phone, goodbyes were said and I set off on the final ‘leg’

For some reason I was all fingers & thumbs this morning. I was wearing thick woollen gloves (I’d mislaid my thinner ones!) Although it was sunny it was bitingly cold. 

In fact, it had been so cold this morning that I had to de-ice the front windscreen before I could drive off!! I tried a few times to take some photos without much success although I did take a few random selfies that I didn’t know about!!

After Big Dog Forest I finally warmed up a bit and became a little more technically adept so was able to take more photos again. The next Forest on today’s list was Carrigan Forest. It was here that I felt less in a heavily managed Forestry Commission ‘factory’ and more on an ancient trail. 

Although I was still walking on the same broad, gravelled Forest track, now it was bounded on each side by an avenue of gnarled, scrubby trees that looked way older even that I am!! Beyond that was another broad strip of rough, boggy ground littered with banks of aromatic, golden gorse and the occasional deciduous bush. Further beyond frequently there were deciduous trees before, finally, giving way to the usual Sitka Spruce.

Perhaps it was this that made for more birdsong, or perhaps the sunshine, or perhaps even the fact there was less wind. Whatever it was I was far more aware of the general peace and quiet and the uplifting sounds of birds welcoming in Spring (and the bonus of no cuckoo!!)

All of my walk was on the Ulster Way, clearly marked at each turning point. All the guides would have you walk from Belcoo in the south to Magho Cliffs in the north but that means the going is predominantly uphill!! Why would you do that? I advise doing it my way, Magho Viewpoint to Belcoo. It’s still not easy but there are more down-hills to up-hills that way.

I had to walk round Lough Formal so I formally marched round it whistling British Grenadiers, Early One Morning and Sweet Lass of Richmond Hill (under my breath!) It’s a military thing!! I kept imagining myself back on the parade square at Guildford on a 2 Company Passing-Out Parade. General Salute & the Corps Marches!! Ahh well – it whiles away the miles!!

Having got to the far side of Lough Formal I first saw a sign saying Car Park this way - did that mean I could have driven it instead of walking? I’ll know next time!! I then saw the sign suggesting a walk up to Formal More Viewpoint  . . . . up a very steep hill!!  . . . . I thought about it for at least a Nano-second!!

This walk comprised very long zig-zags. I zigged, knowing full well that I’d covered miles but progressed yards along my direction of intended travel!! I zagged but hey-ho – gradually I was reaching my goal.

I came across my first lone human driving another road-levelling tractor. Further up the track I came across a heavy roller machine. No doubt he would travel up and down the track on his leveller and then up and down with the roller!! What a job!

I had lunch at Lough Namanfin sitting on a beautifully made bench. Enough room for me to lie out in the sun, propped up by my rucksack. I couldn’t get too comfy as I had a chauffeuse to meet at the end of my hike. Sandwich and homemade sausage rolls scoffed, water drunk and a high energy dark chocolate & berry bar to hand for dessert on the move I set off again for my final destination.

I stopped again just after Sarly Hill as my feet were getting a bit sore. I sat on a nearby stump and changed into a new, dry pair of socks, re-laced my boots and set off again, eager to be finished. There were a few smaller zigzags to negotiate. At one I happened across a couple of chaps ministering to what looked like a bright green, brand-new logging grappler! The engine cover was off and these two guys and their two heavily laden mechanics vans had all bits and bobs strewn across the track. They kindly made a path for me through their work-space and I carried on down towards where I hoped the car would be.

The last mile or so always seems to last for ever. As I trudged downhill I kept thinking the end would just be round the next corner. Denise, who had parked the car earlier (reader – you surely are not surprised!) walked up the hill to meet me then panicked that she was in the wrong place or had missed me somehow so hastily retreated back to the car. We must have been but a short distance from each other for half a mile or so! Eventually I rounded the final bend and there she was, waiting for me, as always.

Photos were taken and congratulatory hugs exchanged before we set off back to Donegal and an excellent Raspberry & White Chocolate Bun cooked by Julia. She cooked 12 but I’ve only managed 1 . . . . so far!!

Over 8 days I have completed 101.18 miles in, for the most part, glorious weather. Not too hot and not too cold. A bit damp one day but heck . . . . it is Ireland.

My very grateful thanks to Denise (in particular), Julia and George for supporting me so well. Without them none of this would have happen. My thanks also to the many people who have sponsored me through my Give as you Live page or through cash donations and raffles. I assure you that all of the money I have raised goes to my two charities (minus any online fees) All of my expenses are self-financed.

This walk has been in memory of a true ex-WRAC, Mel Howell, who surely made her mark in our world. RIP Mel xx

You can donate to my two charities, Pancreatic Cancer Research and WRAC Association at my Give as you Live page at: 

https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-ireland-100-mile-charity-walk-2023

2023 Walking Ireland - Day 7

Monday 24th April

Magho Cliffs Viewpoint to Road, 4.7 Miles & Florence Court Red Trail 5.8 miles

(Should have been Cladagh Bridge to Florence Court 5.9 miles  but section closed!)

Who said it always rains in Fermanagh? Denise & I arrived at Magho Cliffs Viewpoint, the start of today's walk, in glorious sunshine. A pleasant change from my last trip to this continuous area of forest, possibly the largest in Ireland.

I got out of the car for our customary photo-shoot. Brrrr! There was a brisk, cold breeze! Well we were at one of the highest, most exposed parts of Fermanagh. Photos taken I hastily adjusted my 'dress' and put on my windproof high-viz jacket. It kept out the cold and no-one could miss me as I walked down the Ulster Way against the flow of traffic.

After the bare, open ground leading up to the viewpoint where a vast acreage of land had been felled my walk became more sheltered. In fact, I was beginning to steam-up as there was a sizeable hill to climb. Once over that and more enclosed in the forest I had to stop and take my fleece off - I was TOO hot!!

The Ulster Way is a supposed route starting & finishing in Belfast & travelling around Ulster in a clockwise direction. At this point it is a smooth, singe-tracked, tarmacadam highway. I chose to walk it anti-clockwise here in Fermanagh mainly because the general trend of the trail means I'm mostly descending.

The day was one of those will it/won't it days weather wise. Often the sky looked threatening even whilst I was bathed in sunlight. The surrounding countryside was the spruce forest I'd become used to although there were a number of open spaces where gorse, deciduous trees and upland Bogs survived. The views, when they popped out from behind the trees, were spectacular and well worth spending several minutes savouring them. 

I stopped at one viewpoint to have a snack and enjoy the tranquility and amazing vista. 

A chap pulled up in his bright yellow work lorry, got out his phone (this was one of the few places with a signal) and sat there with his noisy, rattling engine running the whole time I was there and for some time after I’d left (he passed me further down the road. 

The streams, rapids and waterfalls were in full spate after the heavy rain of Saturday & Sunday.

Eventually I arrived at the road and made my way along it to my first pick-up point of the day where George duly found me and drove me to Florence Court as I had discovered that the section of the Ulster Way that I had been planning to use, from Cladagh Bridge up the gorge towards the Marble Arch Caves, was closed. I had intended on finishing at Florence Court, a National Trust Property, so I just decided to complete the circular Red Trail around the Florence Court estate. As it turned out I had a lovely, strenuous but pretty walk with many interesting things along the way.

The first half was a very different walk among much more open deciduous woodland. The paths were well marked and well maintained so, although strenuous, with a few hefty uphill sections, it was comparatively easy walking.

There were so many interesting things to see; Lady’s Well, the early water supply for the house; 

the bucolic view across open, cattle-strewn pasture towards the house; the area where young visitors were encouraged to make dens; 

the famous Irish Yew Tree, a previously unknown species discovered in 1767 and one of the 70 Ancient Trees dedicated to the late Queen in her Platinum Jubilee Year.

The Red Trail took me not only through deciduous woodland with its carpets of bluebells but also beside a babbling stream wandering gently beside the path, such a calm sight after the rushing and tumbling of the upland streams. The trail also joined up, at its furthest point, with the Ulster Way and Cuilcagh Way.

I walked the Cuilcagh Boardwalk last year, it’s an amazing experience if you have the legs and the lungs for it! From part of the trail I could spy part of Cuilcagh Mountain before returning to the House and its beautiful gardens. Another place well worth the visit.

George picked me up again at the Florence Court Car Park and drove me to my home-from-home. 

Tea & blackcurrant jam on hot buttered toast was my teatime treat as I sat in the sunroom with my feet up!!

If you would like to you can donate to my Give as you Live page at: 

https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-ireland-100-mile-charity-walk-2023