Monday 29 April 2024

2024 Walking South Pembrokeshire - Day 5

Monday 29th April

Castlemartin to Angle

Wow! What a busy day I've had!! Last night we took one look at the weather forecast and knew that today was going to be interesting to say the least. Wind and rain were on the cards and boy! did they turn up!!

Although we set off from Castlemartin towards Freshwater West it soon became apparent that the wind was far stronger than we thought. We had set off fairly early to do as much of the walk as I could before the rain started. I abandoned the first part of the walk as it was only on the rather boring road; I had to be in Pembroke Dock for 11am so time was limited. 

So busy was I re-planning the day's walk that I forgot to get Denise to stop the car so I could take photos at Freshwater West Memorial, this one is a stock photo. The memorial cross, situated on the north western headland overlooking Freshwater West Bay, commemorates the sinking of LCG 15 and LCG 16 a pair of ‘Landing Craft, Gun’, swamped and sunk in a severe storm en route from the H&W Yard, Belfast to Falmouth. The tragedy took place on the night of 25/26th April 1943 with the loss of 85 lives. Most of the victims were from the LCG’s but also included 6 crew from the fisheries protection vessel, HMS Rosemary, who attempted a rescue using their ship’s lifeboat.  


I decided to try and "Bag" the first 2 forts on my list, the 1st at West Pickard Bay, the 2nd at Whitedole Bay near Sheep Island. As the wind was blowing at around a Force 8 and gusting to Force 9 I decided that it would be a tad unwise to attempt the Coastal Path so the plan was for Denise to drop me off on the road leading to Angle. There were a few points where I hoped, looking at the map, I would be able to get to or near the prehistoric sites. The first stop looked quite promising. The Photo shows how the wind was whipping my backpack cover to one side. I waved Denise goodbye and headed south across the headland towards the coastal path. The wind was very strong and a little gusty which made progress a bit stilted, however, at least it wasn't raining, more a heavy mist. 


I came to a gate and, looking across the fields, could see two 'lumps' which could have been the remains of the camp - the red arrow points at them!! I also saw a sizeable herd of cattle!! I'm not keen on cattle - too inquisitive, too big & unpredictable!! So, not that. approach. 

I skirted round to the left down another track but sadly that ended up in a ploughed field edged by a barbed-wire fence and thick, thorny hedge.


I clambered up a grassy mound and took a photo and nearly got blown over for my pains! One fort "bagged" - well, sort of!

So back to the road and onward to point two where I thought I might be able to access the 2nd fort. On the way I came across a fox heading towards me. I saw him before he saw me so I stopped as he trotted happily towards me. Just as I was about to take a photo a car drove past me and frightened the fox away. 


Sadly the track, when I came to it, was horribly overgrown. 

I attempted to negotiate it but had to abandon and return to the road passing several old carcasses, probably of lambs, which might have been the reason the bold fox was on the prowl. 

So, no "Bag" number 2.

Once on the road I was then heading for the 3rd and last means of reaching the sites. This time it included the East Blockhouse, constructed on Henry VIII's orders to protect the entrance to the haven. It is the earliest military site around the haven but is sadly falling into the sea with coastal erosion.


Imagine my surprise (& fear!) when, carrying on up the road I came across a small herd of young cattle. They had obviously got out of their field several miles back because I had been avoiding their fresh poo splatters all the way! I think they were even more upset than I as I gently followed them up the road towards East Blockhouse. 

When we got to the end of the road it was a dead-end for them because of a cattle grid. Fortunately there was enough room for me to squeeze gently past them as they skipped off back the way they'd come.


Sadly I was never going to reach the East Blockhouse. I was now on the highest part of the headland ridge and the wind was now definitely getting worse, probably around Force 9. I would have had to head into the teeth of the storm and I didn't feel safe enough to do that. Instead, I cut my losses and headed down the footpath to West Angle Bay where Denise was waiting for me.



We now had to head for Pembroke Dock by car as I was due to meet fellow veterans at the VC Gallery for Naafi Break at 1100hrs!! 

Wow! What a reception we got. Steph, the manager, was there to greet us with a very warm welcome. We met so many wonderful people and spent far longer there than we should have. I met people who had known my family, folk from 22LtAD Regt, RA where I had been Assistant Adjutant (many years previously), the grandson of the lady who made or altered most of my clothes (I was a very tall, very skinny kid!!), a member of my late aunts school choir and all the volunteers and staff who make the place the VC Gallery the vibrant, positive place that it is. 

Steph gave us a guided tour of the facility which offers so much to veterans and the community in general. My hat off to Barry John, MBE, an ex-RRW veteran who used his Army severance pay to fund the first of these wonderful places. The charity now runs two centres, both in Pembrokeshire and, as one of the volunteers said, "If only these could be rolled out throughout Wales, what a difference they would make" I wholeheartedly agree. 

I was fortunate enough to meet up with Colonel James Phillips, The Veterans' Commissioner for Wales. It was great to find out how things are being done for veterans here in Wales. James is really easy to talk to, we had a good chat and it was lovely of him to give of his time to meet up with little old me. (Photos to follow as neither Denise,  myself or James took any!)

I gobbled up a plateful (or two) of the delicious buffet the VC Gallery had put on (they admitted it was left over from a function this weekend!!) The KFC-style chicken and pasta salad hit the spot! But. . . . . . I still had a walk to complete. Denise, bless her, drove me back to West Angle Bay again to restart where I'd left off.

Somewhere on that headland is East Blockhouse



If anything the weather had got worse. It was still blowing about Force 9 but now the rain was also lashing down. I headed out of the car park along the Coastal Path. Denise drove to the other end of the village to await my arrival as I walked the peninsula. I got as close as I could to Thorn Island Fort, a the wind and rain battering me. The Thorn Island Battery was built during 1852-4 to provide the first forward defence for the Haven waterway, coupled with West Blockhouse, Dale and Stack Rock forts. 


I was stopped on my way to Thorn Island, not only by the wind on the exposed pathway but, by the massive muddy bog that 'blocked' my way!! Turning back was the only solution. 

I had to continue back along the road and turn left up to the ridge towards Chapel Bay Fort. 

Chapel Bay, one of a series of forts built as part of the inner line of defence of the Haven following the Royal Commission on the Defence of the United Kingdom, it is a Grade II Listed Building and is also known as Chapel Bay Battery. Construction began in 1890, and was completed in 1891. The battery was the first fortification in the area to be built of mass concrete. It could accommodate 91 men, and had a mess room and sick bay facilities. Its initial armament was three ten inch rifled muzzle-loading guns. There were twelve forts constructed to protect the Haven and Royal Dockyards. 


I was fortunately blown up the road to the Fort and was so relieved to have got there that I forgot to take a photo till I was past it!


The remaining walk was just on the leeward side of the ridge so was a little easier. it was, however, through woodland and I was a bit concerned that the storm might bring down some debris. so, I joggled a bit, just to get out from under the hazard!! 


I should have had interesting views of the haven but it kept disappearing in the rain!! 



I passed the Lifeboat Station and was able to see Stack Rock Fort in the middle of the Haven and the jetties of South Hook Gas Terminal and Valero Oil Refinery. 

It was then a quick dash over the brow of the hill, back into the wind and rain. From CafĂ© Mor at the Pointhouse it was another soggy joggle along the shingle track back towards the village. 



Before my walk was done I had one more fortification to "Bag". Angle Tower was constructed in the 14th century by the Shirburn family. With 3 foot thick walls, a drawbridge and a moat, it had enough fortification for the family to feel a moderate sense of safety if threatened, particularly by seaborne raiders. It is thought to be the only Peel (Pele) Tower in Wales.


Time to strip off my wet outer garments and get back in the car for our journey back to our accommodation. Poor Denise, she complained that she had a square bottom for all the sitting around she had to do today!!



I've no idea how far I've walked today - my App went bonkers!! According to it I've completed 11.45 miles but it did something weird so I'm not sure. I think the 9.7mph must have been when I apparently zoomed across the haven!!


Another day done. Hopefully tomorrow will be a little less hectic & traumatic. I'm being interviewed again by Richard Hatch on BFBS Afternoon tomorrow at around 1.30pm (Tuesday)


If you would like to sponsor me and my two amazing charities please follow the link: https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-pembrokeshire-100-mile-2024

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