2023 Walking Ireland - Day 3

Thursday 20^th April 

Leaghany to Lough Derg Quay - 15.5 miles

The day started with my chauffeur, George, driving me on VERY minor roads to my starting point in the Forests of County Tyrone. Even George admitted that he was seeing parts of Ireland that he’d never seen before!! He dropped me off at Leaghany, just over the border into Northern Ireland. 

It was a quiet and peaceful start, just the calls of multiple little birds unseen in the thick forest either side. 

I was also aware of the swish of the spruce trees as they swayed back & forth in the breeze. 

I was also fairly sheltered from the wind and also often from the sun.

For the first part of the walk I was following the International Appalachian Trail. Geologically, back in the day, Ireland, Scotland, Wales (basically the UK & Ireland) were joined to North America. There is a famous walk in the States called the Appalachian Trail, presumably walking in the Appalachian Mountains.

The IAT route runs from west Donegal in the Republic of Ireland to Larne, Co Antrim in Northern Ireland across some unforgiving paths in places. 

I have walked some of the IAT around the Bluestack Mountains on previous visits but its not well signposted in the Republic as far as I can see.

After a while the trail continued to the North-west whilst I headed southward towards Lough Derg. I came out onto a patch where the trees had been felled leaving an amazing vista to the west of me. 

I could see the wind farm near where I’d been dropped off and the Leaghany River which formed the border between Northern Ireland and the Republic.

Throughout the Forest Areas, particularly in Northern Ireland, there are many information panels dotted around. They make fascinating and informative reading. Often they describe the multitude of fauna that thrive in the forest and wetland habitats. 

I like to think that I’m not a noisy walker. I don’t have and background music or talking when I walk (although I do “sing” in my head – silently!!) I don’t stamp around (although all my walking boots seem to have a slightly annoying squeak!!)

However, any fauna that might be within a mile of me obviously hears me and is long gone. So far I have heard LBJ’s (little brown job birds), Cuckoos every day. Seen Mallards and Canada Geese  (I recognise them), a bird of prey of some sort, crows and possibly a jay. As for deer, otters, red squirrels and any other animal, not a site or sound. However, for the second day I found the hoof-print of deer!! I only found it by accident when I thought I’d try a shortcut where I thought I could cross the Leaghany River at a ford – some chance!! Raging torrent springs to mind!! I retraced my steps back to my original route which gave me a chance to take a picture!

After an early lunch stop in the sun I continued on my trek along the very straight road the brisk breeze right in my face again! I got my first glimpse of Lough Derg and Station Ireland Retreat.

That part of the walk was very counter-intuitive: I could see (vaguely) my end of walk but I was walking away from it!! For some considerable time!

At last I headed back northwards with the wind and sun at my back. It wasn’t far to the quay on Lough Derg where pilgrims can visit ‘Saint Patrick’s Purgatory’ on Station Island.

The site's Christian origins date back to fifth or sixth century and since the 1000’s it has been a place of pilgrimage. My chauffeur, George arrived and we walked in the footsteps of Pilgrims along the Pilgrim Path which leads to Saints Island which used to be the site of and earlier monastery.

We also saw one of the largest rowing boats in Ireland, a 50’, clinker-built monster that required 12 men on 4 oars. Given that the boat is huge we were staggered that it was licensed to take 150 passengers across to the island!

Hiccup of the Day? I encountered a very large, fully loaded logging truck on a very narrow road with a tiny verge either side. He came up behind me; I was aware there was a vehicle so I glanced back and stepped to the edge of the road. I looked back properly and there, looming over me was an enormous lorry-cab. I realised I needed to move some more but the verge was narrow and sloping away from me! As I teetered precariously he edged forward (and I was able to notice what a lovely, new, shiny blue the lorry was!!) The wagon was fully loaded with massive tree trunks. I thanked my lucky stars that he was a far more thoughtful driver than the ones I encountered in Scotland last year. To be fair to them, they were on private forestry roads whilst my courteous driver today was on a public road.

Another 15.5 miles done and a well-earned cuppa and cake in the sun to celebrate.