2023 Walking Ireland - Day 4

Friday 21^st April

Big Bridge Figure of Eight - 11.5 Miles

The Figure of Eight comprises two trails, the Bannadoo Trail and the Mullyfa Trail . . . . or from now on, the Red Trail & the Blue Trail. Both of them are additions to the International Appalachian Trail (IAT) which forms the southernmost part of both trails

I had done some of the Red Trail on day 1 and day 3 so there were few surprises. 

A large Limestone Lough beside a ruined hunting lodge, wide corridors between majestic spruce trees and  where the Trail moved away from the road, wide stony paths with annoyingly large lumps of not-so-crushed-stone. 

The route continued north-eastward from where I’d left it yesterday and met up, not too far away, with the Blue Trail. Reader, I confess, I chickened out!! I didn’t fancy twice up the middle section so I went halfway, turned round, came back to the junction & carried on the Blue Trail!! 

There was a modicum of reasoning behind it; the wind was a north-easterly, blowing in my face now but at my back for the last bit! 

Also I didn’t fancy the uphill climb for the 2^nd time at the finish!!

The Blue Trail surface was generally much kinder to my feet with a better (or older) crushed stone more like sand and chippings.

I came across fauna on the trail at last – three sheep! 

They looked at me and,as I got closer, they turned tail and ran. 

I came to an area, Mullyfamore Bog Regeneration Scheme, where they are trying to restore endangered Atlantic Bogs by careful management. 

With that in mind I was horrified to see the litter around the Information Panel. Plastic drink bottles and a can & lid of John West Salmon! Ironic!

I was now in open country and as I had thought, the hefty breeze was in my face. I caught up with my worried sheep again as I headed towards the Killiter Road. 

It was downhill for this bit but still into the wind. I had just realised, as I crossed the Glendergan River, that I had a fair stretch of uphill again. 

I glanced to my right and was shocked to see 4 dead foxes, each hanging on a fence post, presumably as a deterrent to other predators. 

I'm sure they create havoc with lambs and chickens.

Once on the Big Bridge/Killiter Road is was fairly plain sailing (well, walking!). A few lumps & bumps, a lot more traffic until I got closer to the forest and away from habitations, the wind was at my back and all was well with the world. 

Don’t you love place names? 

Some of them here on the ‘Emerald Isle’ are slightly tongue-twisting, especially as I don’t find Gaelic as phonetic as Welsh. 

And then you get some that just tickle your fancy. 

Today’s best place name was . . . SHESKINAWADDY . . . . Isn’t that amazing!

Day 4 done & dusted, a mere 11.5 miles (cos I missed a bit!). Half-way time-wise and just over halfway distance-wise!! 

A cuppa and blackcurrant jam on hot buttered toast eaten sitting in the sun finished the day off well.

If you’d like to donate to my Give as you Live page at: 

https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-ireland-100-mile-charity-walk-2023

2023 Walking Ireland - Day 3

Thursday 20^th April 

Leaghany to Lough Derg Quay - 15.5 miles

The day started with my chauffeur, George, driving me on VERY minor roads to my starting point in the Forests of County Tyrone. Even George admitted that he was seeing parts of Ireland that he’d never seen before!! He dropped me off at Leaghany, just over the border into Northern Ireland. 

It was a quiet and peaceful start, just the calls of multiple little birds unseen in the thick forest either side. 

I was also aware of the swish of the spruce trees as they swayed back & forth in the breeze. 

I was also fairly sheltered from the wind and also often from the sun.

For the first part of the walk I was following the International Appalachian Trail. Geologically, back in the day, Ireland, Scotland, Wales (basically the UK & Ireland) were joined to North America. There is a famous walk in the States called the Appalachian Trail, presumably walking in the Appalachian Mountains.

The IAT route runs from west Donegal in the Republic of Ireland to Larne, Co Antrim in Northern Ireland across some unforgiving paths in places. 

I have walked some of the IAT around the Bluestack Mountains on previous visits but its not well signposted in the Republic as far as I can see.

After a while the trail continued to the North-west whilst I headed southward towards Lough Derg. I came out onto a patch where the trees had been felled leaving an amazing vista to the west of me. 

I could see the wind farm near where I’d been dropped off and the Leaghany River which formed the border between Northern Ireland and the Republic.

Throughout the Forest Areas, particularly in Northern Ireland, there are many information panels dotted around. They make fascinating and informative reading. Often they describe the multitude of fauna that thrive in the forest and wetland habitats. 

I like to think that I’m not a noisy walker. I don’t have and background music or talking when I walk (although I do “sing” in my head – silently!!) I don’t stamp around (although all my walking boots seem to have a slightly annoying squeak!!)

However, any fauna that might be within a mile of me obviously hears me and is long gone. So far I have heard LBJ’s (little brown job birds), Cuckoos every day. Seen Mallards and Canada Geese  (I recognise them), a bird of prey of some sort, crows and possibly a jay. As for deer, otters, red squirrels and any other animal, not a site or sound. However, for the second day I found the hoof-print of deer!! I only found it by accident when I thought I’d try a shortcut where I thought I could cross the Leaghany River at a ford – some chance!! Raging torrent springs to mind!! I retraced my steps back to my original route which gave me a chance to take a picture!

After an early lunch stop in the sun I continued on my trek along the very straight road the brisk breeze right in my face again! I got my first glimpse of Lough Derg and Station Ireland Retreat.

That part of the walk was very counter-intuitive: I could see (vaguely) my end of walk but I was walking away from it!! For some considerable time!

At last I headed back northwards with the wind and sun at my back. It wasn’t far to the quay on Lough Derg where pilgrims can visit ‘Saint Patrick’s Purgatory’ on Station Island.

The site's Christian origins date back to fifth or sixth century and since the 1000’s it has been a place of pilgrimage. My chauffeur, George arrived and we walked in the footsteps of Pilgrims along the Pilgrim Path which leads to Saints Island which used to be the site of and earlier monastery.

We also saw one of the largest rowing boats in Ireland, a 50’, clinker-built monster that required 12 men on 4 oars. Given that the boat is huge we were staggered that it was licensed to take 150 passengers across to the island!

Hiccup of the Day? I encountered a very large, fully loaded logging truck on a very narrow road with a tiny verge either side. He came up behind me; I was aware there was a vehicle so I glanced back and stepped to the edge of the road. I looked back properly and there, looming over me was an enormous lorry-cab. I realised I needed to move some more but the verge was narrow and sloping away from me! As I teetered precariously he edged forward (and I was able to notice what a lovely, new, shiny blue the lorry was!!) The wagon was fully loaded with massive tree trunks. I thanked my lucky stars that he was a far more thoughtful driver than the ones I encountered in Scotland last year. To be fair to them, they were on private forestry roads whilst my courteous driver today was on a public road.

Another 15.5 miles done and a well-earned cuppa and cake in the sun to celebrate.

 

2023 Ireland - Day 2

 

Wednesday 19th April 2023

Day 2 Belleek to Pettigoe - 17 miles

The morning started well, a bit blowy but sunny. Denise & I left our home-from-home reasonably early to travel via Ballyshannon to Belleek. There was method in our madness. Belleek boast an amazing little coffee shop, The Thatch, where I aimed to grab a bacon & egg sandwich and a coffee before starting walking.

Imagine my disappointment when we got there to find it was closed!! 

We checked the opening times – 9am to 5pm – it was just after 9 but it was VERY closed!! 

Oh well – I keep complaining that I put on weight doing these walks – enforced dieting today!!

Today is a day of lakes (Loughs), hills and roads. I was going to walk in a very wet, stony, peat-bogged area of Ireland. No chance of any “off-piste” routes as I’d have been up to my neck in water & bog!! 

After yesterday I wasn’t looking forward to the constant pounding my poor feet were going to get; however, some of the roads were very small, underused tracks with grass growing down the middle or with flat, grassy verges so I got some respite.

Dotted around, few and far between, were houses and cottages, some permanent residences and some holiday homes/lets. 

Their views were amazing if you like wild and secluded.

My walk started in sunshine with a blustery breeze. It also started reasonably flat but lulled me into a false sense of security as I was faced with a hill. 

Not what I’d wanted to see a third of the way into my walk!! 

It was one of those hills that went on, . . . . . and on . . . . .oh good I’ve finished . . . . oh no it goes on . . . . and on!! 

The higher I climbed the windier it got. 

The windier it got the cooler it got (despite the climbing!) 

The cooler it got the more I regretted starting out in a thin walking-top and my Pancreatic Cancer T-Shirt) 

Back on went my fleece. 

When I reached one of the supposed summits I had a glorious view over the Lough towards the hills I had been walking yesterday (Red Arrow marks the spot).

I had a late lunch break by some empty Holiday Properties. They afforded me some shelter from the wind and a step to sit on whilst I munched on my sandwiches whilst I wrapped myself in every available bit of extra clothing I carried!!

As I continued towards Pettigoe I came across the Tully Custom & Excise Patrol Station which was built c.1930. When I looked it up they think it might have been moved from another place  along the road but it was used , probably up until 1990’s.

After many more uphill’s and downhill’s  I came to an area of peat bog which is quite extensively being “farmed” for peat logs.

Unlike the peat bricks which I have seen being dug out at some considerable depth this seems to involve “scraping” the surface with a machine that then produces the peat as what frankly I would describe as “turds”!! 

Along with the stripping of the peat surface there seems to be a load of detritus involved, mainly wooden pallets and loads of white, heavy-duty bags.

By journeys end I felt thoroughly battered by the wind. The last half of my walk was directly into the teeth of the wind and the sun had all but disappeared.

Never mind, a cuppa and another of Julia’s coffee and walnut muffins soon put the world to rights.

Another chunk off my total mileage and a visit to a spiritual setting on the cards for tomorrow.

If you would like to sponsor me you can donate to my Give as you Live page at: 

https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-ireland-100-mile-charity-walk-2023

2023 Walking Ireland - Day 1

Day 1 Meenbog to Laghy - 15.5 miles

Day dawned & it was dry!! The condemned woman ate a hearty breakfast (well, an omelette!!) George was my chauffeur of the morning and he drove me up the N15, through Barnsmore Gap, turned onto a single track road towards Meenbog and then on, across the border to my starting point near Croagh Plantation to the north of Killiter Forest. 

Just before 9am I began my walk; just as I started I heard the call of a cuckoo. . . . well, I think it was a cuckoo . . . or was it someone telling me I'm mad!!

The path was a broad road of crushed stone, well compacted so reasonable walking if I kept to the more worn, flattened tracks. It wound its way through the well managed forestry area, sometimes through great swathes of fairly recently felled land, and sometimes I was dwarfed by majestic fir trees towering over me. They’d obviously had some fierce storms over the winter as many trees on the edges had been uprooted and blown over. Only one had fallen across the path as far as I could see.

I saw one lone bird of prey sitting on a tall, bare tree-stump, too far away to photograph. It soon flew away as I got closer. 

Apart from that and the cuckoo I could hear many smaller birds (but rarely saw them). I didn’t spot any red squirrels or deer that apparently live in the forests but I did see the spoor left by deer.

I also saw plenty of spring flora, primroses, violets, and the wonderful heady almond scent of golden gorse in full bloom. 

I stopped for my morning snack just before Big Bridge. The plants growing nearby looked like tiger-striped asparagus!! 

I knew that my walk wasn’t going to be flat, that I was going to have some up-hills as well as down-hill: I just wasn’t quite prepared for that many up-hills!! My thanks to my colleagues from the WRAC Association for helping me train well for such eventualities!!

Just before halfway I crossed the border into the Republic at Kelley’s Bridge. I had apparently been walking part of the International Appalachian Way for some of the walk in South Tyrone – it was very well signposted and had many information panels. I continued along “The Way” once over the border but the signage disappeared!! At some point I veered away but I’ve no idea where!

The one thing that the Republic had in abundance was Wind Generation. They were visible (and audible) as I crossed over. They are immense and have an audible but not annoying hum and swish. I sat eating my lunch not far from one and although I was aware it was there I soon became accustomed to the sound and it just became a background sound.

I was about two thirds into the walk when I saw my first car! It passed me – twice!! The first time on its way the same direction as me and again a few minutes later coming back. I carried on walking but the constant pounding on the hard tarmacked surface was making my feet a little sore but I gritted my teeth and carried on. I approached a smallholding where an enthusiastic collie warned me away and shepherded me past his property. I’d noticed a few Roadwork signs but was too busy trying to ignore the collie. I walked a bit further and a handwritten sign said “Road Closed, Tues 18^th & Weds 19^th”

“Well, I ain’t walking back!!”

I carried on and came across a very large tractor pulling a roller/scraper smoothing out the crushed stone dust and pebbles prior to resurfacing. He waved me on and for a mile or so I was in heaven walking on a soft sandy surface. I didn’t have time take a photo as he had driven up the road to the smallholding, turned and was heading back my way!

Every time I thought I had climbed the last incline it proved me wrong. 

Until, at last, I headed down towards Laghy. The views of the Blue Stack Mountains to my right were amazing. 

It was all downhill for the last few kilometres (well, mostly) 

Denise met me and drove me back to our home-from-home for a well-earned cuppa and cake which I ate, sitting in the sunshine, admiring the view of Donegal Bay.

Day 1 done – 15.5 miles under my belt and rearing to go tomorrow. 

2023 Walking Ireland - We're here!!

 D-Day Minus 1 - Monday 17th April 2023

The day is nearly here. Yesterday, we drove up through ”The Shires” in glorious sunshine and arrived at Birkenhead Ferry Terminal well in advance to catch our overnight boat. The crossing was so smooth we hardly even knew the boat was travelling!! There was only one fly in the ointment! It is my usual practice to reward my driving with a refreshing pint of Guinness before turning in for the night! Imagine my shock, . . . Nay! Horror . . . when I discovered there was no Guinness on board – they’d run dry!! In fact there was no beer, full-stop!! I had to content myself with a large glass of red wine.

We arrived at Belfast Docks at 0630 on a fairly foggy morning and drove to Donegal. Just as well the road was fairly familiar as the fog was quite thick in places so we couldn’t appreciate the scenery. We landed at our ‘home’ for the two weeks, with our ”Rellies”, at 0930 and the day progressed with some lovely sunshine as my picture shows.

View from my home from home

Tomorrow I start my walk with a “gentle” 15.3 Miler from Meenbog to Laghy. I start in Northern Ireland and end in the Republic of Ireland. At the moment my hosts and Denise are fighting it out to decide who is dropping me off and /or picking me up and on which days!!

My feet have been taped by Dr Clarke & I’m about to tuck into a hearty meal. Then its early bed ready for another early start tomorrow.

Excited . . . Yes

Apprehensive . . . A little

Wish me luck.

2023 Walking Ireland Planning 2

 Marg Davies 100 Mile Charity Walk in Ireland 2023

The training is almost over and it's time to start sorting and packing my kit ready for the "off." I've completed my last Training Walk - it's almost time to go.

They'll see me coming and going!!

I’ll be walking mostly in Northern Ireland (Fermanagh and South Tyrone), but crossing the border now and again into County Donegal. I will be walking resplendent in my Pancreatic Cancer Research Fund T-shirts which are not only highly visible but also nice and "Techie" so are able to wick away my sweat because, of course, Ireland will be bathed in sunshine for the duration of my walk!!

I’m fortunate that I can take as long as it takes to complete my 100 miles this year as we're staying with Denise's family. I’m planning to complete my 100 miles sometime between Wednesday 19^th April 2023 and Wednesday 26^th April 2023.  

So I'm gearing up ready for forest tracks and minor lanes. The map shows the routes I'm hoping to take. I will be driving or being driven to an area, doing a circular or linear walk, getting back in the car, driving to the next area and repeating the process until I have completed 100 miles.

Each year my supporters amaze and humble me with their generosity raising funds for my two charities. The Women’s Royal Army Corps Association, the only veteran’s charity set up specifically to cater for the needs of female veterans and the Pancreatic Cancer Research Fund in memory of another female veteran, Mel Howell, who died from Pancreatic Cancer in 2022 after a very brief and painful illness. At the moment there is only an 8% survival rate over 5 years if diagnosis is delayed.

My two charities and I would be very grateful if you could help me raise my target amount.

You can donate to my Give as you Live page at: 

https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-ireland-100-mile-charity-walk-2023

2023 Walking Ireland Planning

Marg Davies 100 Mile Charity Walk in Ireland 2023

It’s the time of year again to plan for my 2023 charity walk. I’ve completed most of my annual 100 Mile Walks in various parts of England, one in Wales and one in Scotland. This time, Year 10, I felt it was time to do a walk in Ireland. I’ll be walking mostly in Northern Ireland (Fermanagh and South Tyrone), but crossing the border now and again into County Donegal. 

I’m fortunate that I can take as long as it takes to complete my 100 miles this year. Denise (as many of you know, my support driver/medic/cook/etc.) and I are staying with her sister and brother-in-law in Donegal town for the duration. No monetary or time constraints apart from ferry times to and from Northern Ireland. I’m provisionally planning to complete my 100 miles sometime between Monday 17^th April 2023 and Tuesday 25^th April 2023.  

Each year my supporters amaze and humble me with their generosity and again I’m raising funds for two charities. The first is the Women’s Royal Army Corps Association, the only veteran’s charity set up specifically to cater for the needs of female veterans. Females are often the forgotten ‘heroes’ - forgotten by society in general but also frequently under-resourced by ‘Veteran’ society as well. The WRAC Association gives not only financial support to female army veterans but also provides emotional support to a section of our community that often suffers from isolation and loneliness. The WRAC Association is a safe haven where female veterans can find the support and friendship that is often all that is required to overcome their difficulties. My second charity is Pancreatic Cancer Research in memory of another female veteran, Mel Howell, who died from Pancreatic Cancer in 2022 after a very brief and painful illness. As a breast-cancer survivor myself I am only too aware of how fortunate I am and how much more research is required to give Pancreatic Cancer patients a fighting chance. At the moment there is only a 14% survival rate over 5 years if diagnosis is delayed.

This year my walks are going to be a little bit different. Normally I complete my 100 Mile walk by walking a line from point A to Point B, getting dropped off and picked up each day along the route. Ireland is a little bit different as a few 100 mile plus linear routes do exist but over very wild, rugged, boggy, mountainous terrain. One thing my 72 years on this planet has taught me is to set realistic challenges!! As a lone walker I have no intention of traversing mountainous bog-land using just a compass to find my route (there are few marked pathways!!) So, forest tracks and minor lanes are the order of the day. I will be driving to an area, parking the car, doing a circular walk, getting back in the car, driving to the next area and repeating the process until I have completed 100 miles. The map shows (possibly not very clearly!) some of routes I'll be walking.

My Give as you Live fundraising page is open at:

https://donate.giveasyoulive.com/fundraising/margs-ireland-100-mile-charity-walk-2023