Wednesday 27 April 2022

2022 - Day 6 - Laggan Locks to Gairlochy & Spean Bridge

Beautiful sunny start to the day. Denise drove me down to Laggan Lochs where we just got over the Swing Bridge before they closed it! I had hoped to see it in operation but seemingly they were just doing tests as the road re-opened shortly, just as I was waving Denise goodbye!!  
There was a short, about a mile, walk between the north and south locks along another section of the Caledonian Canal. I then had to cross the lock (wishing a "Good morning!" to the lockeeper who was cleaning the lockhouse windows. Then it was on round the northern side of the Loch which was like a polished mirror gleaming in the morning sun. 
I had thought that the walk was going to be 'beside' Loch Lochy, as in next to, within spitting distance. For much of todays walk the Loch was about 30/40m or more below me!! The walk started out on a smooth enough track which, once past Kilfinnan (Finnan's Church), the burial place of the Chiefs of the MacDonalds of Glengarry, turned into a rather dusty, stony track.
Its saving grace were the stunning views that I was afforded along the way. The weather was amazing, sunny with little wind and it wasn't long before my fleece was off & stuffed in my bag. 
There was much evidence of forestry work having taken place. In some patches the trees had been felled and dead  & dying branches the only evidence that they'd been there. In other places there were swathes of newly planted saplings stretching high up the mountainside. In keeping with meeting folks from the USA I met Karon and John from Montana and we had a nice chat. At one point on the track I came across an area where some large logging lorries were stacking logs ready for transport. I'd gone about a quarter of the way when I stopped for a snack break. I found a beach with a log ideal for sitting in the sun & munching my Trailmix Bar (homemade by me!!) 
Suitably refreshed I continued on my way. As I was heading back to the forest track a large, empty logging lorry hurtled past at breakneck speed, stanchions rattling noisily and clouds of dust billowing out as it passed! That was a good miss I thought.
Back on the track I plodded as it undulated  its way south-west. I hadn't gone more than half a mile when I heard a thundering in the distance behind me. "A vehicle!" I thought. It got closer and louder and was probably travelling at a lick I also thought!! I got as far off the track as the terrain allowed (only about 6ft) as the monster, a fully laden logging lorry thundered past without any change of speed! I realised he had a job to do but . . . really?! I waited till the dust cloud had subsided and then continued on the track. Again, I hadn't gone another half mile before I heard another ominous sound in the distance behind me! Again I got as far off the path as I could (about the same as last time) turned my back & held my breath. A second fully loaded logging lorry thundered past again throwing up a massive cloud of dust as it roared and growled into the distance. I half smiled to myself as I heard it changing down the gears as it laboured away. "That'll teach you!" I thought. Suddenly I realised, if it was labouring to climb then so would I!!
Sure enough, I came to a short, steep climb at the top of which was a lady in a High-visit jacket who told me to keep walking through and that "the lads" would stop their work whilst I went past them. So down a short, dusty, stony dip I went passing walkers and bikers travelling in the opposite direction. Then I had to climb up the otherside of the dip towards where "the lads" were working. First I came across a Grab Machine that was there to stack the ready-cut logs. Beyond him were two other machines working in harmony. 
The 'lads' at the bottom of the slope in high-vis jackets had chainsaws and were clearing the felled trees and attaching them to hawsers. 
The guy in the machine closest to me then hauled them up the slope and deposited them by the other machine which picked each massive trunk up, stripped the branches off and cut it into required lengths. Fascinating to watch.
From there on it was mostly downhill (while still undulating). I passed another forestry lady in her high-vis jacket at the other side of the logging operation. Just before Clunes, around about halfway, I meant to stop and have my lunch. At each point I thought I'd stop I met walkers going in the opposite direction! First there was Bill & Nicky from Colorado who had just recently completed the West Highland Way and had climbed Ben Nevis yesterday!! Eventually they said they were mad! Then I met two couples from Manchester (UK!). They had been staying at a B&B where the landlady had kindly pointed out the peaks so they were able to confirm which of the peaks I was looking at was Ben Nevis!! They also gave me a mint humbug, another reason for not having lunch till I'd finished sucking it!! Then I met a whole bunch of walkers who were also from the States. One couple from Seattle and the others from New York. I did ask what the fascination was for walkers from the USA. They replied it was for the wonderful walking. I guess, fewer wild animal threats, companies that specialise in moving your luggage from place to place; and one lady did say she felt safer walking in Europe than in the States. 
I also met two pairs of female walkers who were camping wild!! My hats off to them - I like my creature comforts!! Sally and her friend (Sorry, I couldn't remember how to spell it!!) were enjoying being able to walk for as long or as short as they wished each day: no deadline to reach. Must admit that could be an advantage but not one I'd trade! The other two ladies agreed that their packs were heavy. Their remedy was to eat the heaviest food first!! 
I eventually stopped for my sandwiches just after Clunes. Clunes Bay was used by the Commandos during WW2 training for practising assaults from Landing Craft. 
I found a sandy beach in the sun to contemplate their sacrifice and to also marvel at the weather and scenery. Who needs trips to Trinadad & Tobago? 
The road to Gairlochy was easy enough but from there to the Commando Monument at Spean Bridge was an uphill slog. Then, when I got there the bl*@!# thing was covered in white tarpaulin for cleaning! 
Well that was worth the effort - NOT
The picture had to be taken though.
Denise picked me up and we made our way back to our cottage at Fort Augustus. 
An interesting day with fabulous scenery. I can't get over the stunning views.

3 comments:

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