Friday 29 April 2022

2022 - Day 7 - Part 2 - Spean Bridge to Fort William

Thursday morning dawned bright & sunny, as did I. We made our way back to Spean Bridge and the tarpaulin-wrapped Commando Monument. At least it was all kind of down-hill from here! 
I have to admit that the first half of the walk beside the amazing Caledonian Canal was the most peaceful that i've done; just the chirrup of different birdsong and the occasional splash of a passing canoeist or the  quiet, leisurely chug of a slow moving 'Gin Palace'
I found myself thinking of my Grandfather, Norman as I stepped along the path jauntily swinging my shortened walking pole like he used to swing his walking stick. Even at 80 years of age he never seemed to use his stick as a prop but more as a dapper swagger-stick. 
After I'd gone about 4 miles I stopped by one of Telford's mooring bollards for my snack-break. Yesterday I heard one cuckoo, briefly. Today, up Glen Moy, the thing was going bonkers. Some poor little birds were going to work hard to rear their 'adopted' off-spring!!
Break over I set off again still amazed by the tranquility of my surroundings. 
The scenery was wonderful and the woodland and flora were stunning. 
At this point I met the occasional pair or group of walkers/bikers but they were few and far between. I stopped & chatted briefly but must admit to my brain becoming so chockful by this time that many of the names have disappeared from my memory. I do remember meeting Les and his wife from Northwich who had just completed the West Highland Way in glorious weather. They had a few days holiday left so thought they'd also do the Great Glen!! I also met a group of two couples from Texas who were on the first day of their Great Glen adventure. It took me back to my days in the WRAC as one of the guys kept addressing me as "Ma'am." Happy days!! 
I stopped for a rather breezy lunch beyond Torcastle. Breezy because today, for the first time since I started my walk, the wind had veered from the north-east (at my back) to the south-west (in my face).
I set off again meeting more & more people as I travelled. Some were starting their journey, some were just out enjoying the surroundings and some, like me, were almost at the end. Everyone kept saying, "Not far to Neptune's Staircase." 
 I don't know why but, in my head, Neptune's Staircase was Fort William - well, as near as dammit!! 
Oh how wrong can one be?
I descended the staircase,  crossed the railwayline and continued beside the canal to the locks at Corpach where it meets Loch Linnhe and eventually one reaches the Isle of Mull and the sea. 
The pathway then turns south-east beside Loch Linnhe where they're doing major coastal defence work so it was all fenced-off! I did wonder if, when I got to the end, the Old Fort would also be fenced off like Flora MacDonald at the start and the Commando Memorial!! I took a picture of the Loch towards the sea. I could make out terraces of cream houses in the distance but thought nothing of them; I had reached Fort William after all. Hadn't I?
Oh no I hadn't! I was in Caol and still had Lochyside and the River Lochy, Inverlochy and the River Nevis to negotiate before I reached Fort William!! So on I went with the ever looming presence of Ben Nevis glowering down at me. 
I had arranged to meet up with Liz Dixon of Stirling Branch and Janette Dean of Edinburgh at the Old Fort at 4pm. I was a bit early (1515hrs) so thought I'd check that our table booking at the Brewers Fayre was OK!! I also posted my Day 7 - Part 1 Blog. Oh well, might as well have a swift half whilst there!! 
 I was chatting to the barman, Mark, whilst waiting. He was from Capetown, South Africa although his parents were originally from North Yorkshire. He kindly bought me a pint as a way of congratulations for completing my 100 miles! I claimed my pint after I'd met up with Liz and Janette.
It was just gone 3.30pm when I made my way the last couple of hundred yards to the Old Fort.  It was fairly exposed and breezy so I put my fleece back on and wandered round the ruins taking photos and reading the information plaques. So relieved and engrossed was I that I failed to notice two ladies apparently shouting to me (they'd tried to phone but mine was on silent!!!) and waving at me. Finally Janette ran towards me calling my name & I woke from my reverie!! We greeted each other as only sisters-in -arms can do!! 
We found an unsuspecting walker to take some pictures then, photo-shoot over, we headed for the Brewers!! 
They bought me a lovely meal with red wine (I also claimed my pint from Mark) and we chatted about my walk and our time in the army. Whilst talking about the disbandment of the WRAC and the changes there had been and still were happening Liz mentioned one of the disadvantages that I'd not thought of. She said the worst thing was the sudden ending of inter-WRAC Company sport. Female sporting competition suddenly just ceased because troops were now amalgamated. I think it has picked up again now but initially it just suddenly ceased!
Denise arrived from Base Camp 2 and we had another drink! 
I have been really blown away by the generosity and kindness of all the ladies of the WRAC Association who have travelled vast distances just to wave me off or welcome me home. 
It is this camaraderie that is the backbone of the Association and the reason I do my walks; to publicise all the good that this charity does; the way it reaches out to all women who served. 
Thank you to everyone who has supported me and donated through my link to the Association and the National Caribbean Monument Charity. 

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